So, Seeds.

Seeds in wax paper packets, fresh compost and the emergence of the year’s first seedlings mark the start of Spring for the veg grower. I live in awe at the power of something so small and its ability to release such energy with a few elemental requirements. The term ‘seed’ is applied to many forms - seed potatoes, which are in fact tubers; sweetcorn, which is a seed enclosed in a husk or shell; and the beloved strawberry, with its seeds on the outside (those ‘seeds’ are actually fruits called achenes). Regardless of horticultural quandary, seeds are the essential starting point of growing your own food. The variety of seeds available to the home grower far outnumbers the choice of produce available in even the best farm shops and allows us to be creative with colour and taste.

I feel it’s the responsibility of the home gardener to grow and save at least some of their own seed. Large seed companies corner the market and control what we should grow, so it’s essential that we save and swap seed to keep old and interesting varieties alive. There are some fantastic companies growing and selling real seed and some great initiatives for seed saving co-ops across the UK. Seeds that are “native” to your area will usually perform better than generic hybrid seeds grown en masse; they build up a genetic memory over time, adapting specifically to their environment. Quality of seed can vary, so it’s worth cataloguing seeds that germinated well and seed growers that supplied you with healthy, viable stock. I favour open pollinated seed, as opposed to F1 (hybrid) seed. Hybridised seed contains genetic material from two parent plants, resulting in vigorous growth in the first year, but seeds saved from F1 plants will not grow true to type. You may get some interesting genetic throwbacks, but ultimately you won’t be able to grow the same strong plant you had in the first growing season. Open pollinated varieties grow true year on year.
Once you have purchased or saved your seeds, it is important to store them correctly. Seeds should be stored indoors, in dark, dry conditions; this ensures viability in coming years and saves buying new every season. Most seeds, if stored well, should last two to three years, but some, like parsnip and agretti seed will need to be bought or saved every year. It is wise to buy only what you need, so you don’t have too much left over.  

Seeds have four simple requirements for successful germination - warmth, light, oxygen and moisture. The success of your veg patch hangs on getting this right. However, it really is quite simple -
It is important to sow your seeds at the right time of year, naturally providing the right amount of light and temperature for your seeds to grow. Sowing conditions are usually indicated on the seed packet, although in some cases they require a little interpretation rather than strict adherence. I experiment every year with sowing times, referring to my diary and adjusting according to last year’s results.

Watering is the bit that is easy to get wrong - too wet and the seed will rot, not enough and it won’t imbibe and germinate. Keep the soil damp, not sopping, don’t let it dry out and ensure that your pots and trays are free draining.

“How deep do I sow my seeds?” is a common question. The answer is mainly down to common sense - I sow tiny seeds straight on the surface with a thin layer of sieved compost or vermiculite over top, and larger seeds at a depth of roughly three times their size. This is a loose guideline, but it becomes second nature with practice. This applies to both indoor and outdoor seed sowing. I sometimes multi-sow two seeds per module or pot, and once germinated select the strongest seedling, weeding out the other; this is a good method to use for plants that you find difficult to germinate.

I would always recommend sowing into a seed compost rather than a multi-purpose one, as it has a finer consistency and contains just the right amount of nutrients required for initial growth. Once your seeds are sown, avoid watering overhead with a watering can as this can dislodge your careful sowing. Instead, simply place your seed tray/pot in a water bath and let capillary action naturally draw water up the compost to the roots, avoiding disturbance.

This post originally appeared as an article in the March 2019 edition of the Bridport Times and can be read online at www.bridporttimes.co.uk.